Siena
Pondering on thoughts of Siena today.
If the Tuscan town of Siena had a heart, it would be the enchanting Piazza del Campo, or as the Sienese say, "Campo." This medieval marvel has captured my heart with its timeless beauty, unique personality, and vibrant sense of community with which it resonates. Nestled in the center of Siena, Campo serves as the lively hub of the city. Eleven narrow cobblestone streets encircle the main square, each radiating outward towards the seventeen unique districts of which Siena is comprised. While each district has its own distinctive character and rich history, the connecting roads symbolize the unity of the residents, which becomes readily apparent when observing how they come to celebrate living life together within the Piazza del Campo.
The Palio de Siena is a centuries-old tradition that beautifully illustrates Siena's rich sociocultural background. In this biannual event, Campo is transformed into a horse track. Each of the seventeen neighborhoods passionately supports its prized horses as they race around the square in a friendly competition. The event is not only a horse race but a living symbol of the city's culture and community spirit.
Beyond the wilds of the Palio days, Campo is a place where you can simply relax and soak in the warmth of the sun, gazing up at the brilliant blue sky as it stretches from one ancient building to another. I often find myself lost in the rhythm of life while lingering in this shell-shaped square, which offers a profound sense of peace and belonging to all who visit.
If ever a space was meant for experiencing "Il dolce far niente," the Italian phrase for the sweetness of doing nothing, it would be Campo. To truly appreciate the beauty and joy of this communal space, one must be willing to surrender to the act of lingering. It is in the lingering, in the moments of quiet contemplation and people-watching, that you will discover the essence of Piazza del Campo's purpose. A place where history and culture intertwine effortlessly. When visiting,
Habitually, I position myself "stage right," a spot I have come to love for its captivating view of the square. Sitting there, I am surrounded by flocks of curious one-legged, and sometimes even one-eyed, pigeons. Each one seems to be cooing and grunting a message at me, which I never entirely understand. From this vantage point, I can see everything going on around me. I see people tossing coins into the Fonte Gaia, an Italian marble fountain representing prosperity and communal connection, each hoping for their wishes to come true. From here, you can also view The Torre del Mangia rising up gracefully as if almost touching the clouds. A sight that always takes my breath away, no matter how many times I see it.
Stepping into a Piazza del Campo is like entering into a different realm, a bygone era of sorts, where time slows down, and visitors are given a front-row seat.
The Piazza is a vibrant hub filled with life, especially on Sundays when families and friends gather. The air is filled with the sounds of laughter and ringing bells, creating a heightened sense of enchantment. A nod and a smile shared with the locals breaks any language barrier and invites you in to celebrate life alongside each other. Children play football and squeal with excitement as they kick the ball back and forth from one end of the square to the other. Parents cradle their little ones as old friends reunite, embracing each other's company while taking their dogs for an afternoon stroll. It is a scene brimming with life and something of which every visitor unknowingly becomes a part. Everything that happens here is a testament to the strong sense of community and tradition that is deeply ingrained in the Piazza's culture.
The sound of the bells, marking the passing hours and minutes, is the only thing that breaks the stillness of time passing. Perhaps it is all in my imagination, but the concept of time in the Piazza seems to defy time itself. I always extend my stay to the next series of brilliant reverberating sounds that echo up through the narrow crimson cobblestone linen advocates. It is a bit like hitting the snooze button in the morning, I suppose. There is nothing quite as powerful as the sound of a bronze clapper meeting its bell, a sound so poignant that it never ceases to remind me that I am alive.
Predictably, during each visit, I find myself rising from my seat and wandering over to the Palazzo Pubblico, the historic town hall. I love to take in the perfectly framed Sieanese sky it offers, and I always capture the moment with a photograph. The odd thing is that I have never been truly satisfied with the outcome of any of these photos. It now occurs to me that my disappointment with the images may have nothing to do with the pictures themselves. Instead, it may just be my subconscious nudging me once again to return to this place, to once again experience its magical tranquility.
Enjoy this photo. It will likely not be that last.
This life is to wander.
—M
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